Simulating 288-16G's?

[selmerdave]

I suspect not, the 802 is a small format (1"?) driver as opposed to the large format(1.4"?) 288's. I think you would need an adaptor to between the two to mount them on the same horn anyway.

Dave

[bfish]

You won't get much "shimmer" from your 288s without EQ, which your 19s have built-in. Sooo, when you pull the 802s and put them on 511s on your Simplexs, the shimmer will be gone, but still better than your 288s as is, assuming you can rebalance the padding on the XO.

Speaking of which, what XO are you using?

If you'll investigate the CinemaScope systems your Simplexes were used with, you'll find they weren't concerned with anything over 8kHz anyway. Or, for that matter, below 60 Hz, as the soundtrack was hard-filtered to keep the 30-60Hz carrier frequencies inaudible. This isn't to suggest your boxes can't go that low, just that they weren't used that low.

[analog addict]

So you're saying that if I do an analysis of the crossovers, I may find that I'm not getting what I want out of them? I have a "new" HP 302A wave analyzer/297A sweep drive, and an old fashioned chart recorder. I have been toying with the idea of charting freq. response on both the low pass and high pass ends of the crossover using these tools.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed?

[bfish]

By all means, if you're using the Simplex XOs, I'd definitely check them out. I doubt however, that you find any intentional EQ built in though, as they're likely rebadged Altecs. In the Simplex XL System manual I linked in the other thread, you'll find that house EQ was allowed by switching caps in the changeover switching unit, which you probably don't have (it would've been in the projection booth, and likely went with that gear).

So, assuming you want hifi, you'll need to add something, either passive or active EQ, and/or a dedicated HF unit. If mine, I'd probably go active 3-way, swap the 288s for 290s to go on the 203 horns, crossed ~ 300, further crossed ~6kHz to 902s on 811 or (those awful) mini MRs. CD EQ and delay on all bands.

But that's just me...

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ April 07, 2008 02:56 PM: Message edited by: bfish ]</font>

[Old Guy]

I think mking small formats sound like 288 G's is going to be an impossible project...the 288 has a much larger vibrating mass, gonna be smoother in the mid but actually less HF, the 19 xover is pretty darn good as is. the 288 G doesn't have more HF than the 19 if that is ht you are thinking...

Basically- can you make a dreadnout guitar sound like a small body for finger picking?

You can EQ, you an play around with different strings, but in the end, you are starting with a different sound and wiil finish with a different sound...same with 288 and 802.

Can two speaker sound different and both sound good? Certainly. Just as an apple tastes different from a strawberry...

One of the reasons why some people have several different sets of speakers. Or drink different drinks accoring to their mood...or drive a four wheeler in the mud and a sports car on the freeway...it's those differences that make life worth living.

I think you will like the g's on top of your bottoms...

BTW meant to mention GPA can replace the terminals on those...short term you can run leads from the fram, seal the holes with RTV, can be razor blade off later.

[analog addict]

Spent a bit of time on the phone with Steve of GPA. The rattling inside one of the 291's may be a piece of the missing terminals, so it may not actually be toast. Replacing the terminals is only $2.50 a piece, so that is easy enough, and the new 288 'phragms are $100 a piece.

The sticky part will be removing the old broken mounting bolt. Steve says it will be a minimum of $40 for an hour of shop time/labor. It may still be worth it to have the professionals do the job.

Anyone know if they typically return the old 291 'phragms?

[Old Guy]

I would just drop by a local machine shop- I'm sure somebody will take that bolt out for twenty bucks- around here I'd have a choice of many...

As far as returning the old frams, just specify, I'm sure they will. They have value on EBAY BTW-

no longer available, so if somebody wants to match, the have to buy off Ebay.

[analog addict]

If I were to pull my 802-8G's off my M19's, put them on a set of 511, and run them with the W's/515's, would this give me a better idea of the sound/high frequency response of 288-16G's?

Or is this not worth the labor? I know the 802 won't have the same efficiency, but it's most the "shimmer" I'm looking for....

A reasonable facsimile?

[valhallax]

for what its worth..i had a 288k show up with a sheared off bolt, flush with the body of the driver. there was just the slightest of a thread showing. suprisingly enough, i gently tapped on the thread and it began to come right out. all the studs in my large format drivers were never loctited in so, yours should come right out. an easy out and a drill bit would work great..taking some care not to get the tailings in the driver itself..otherwise the local machine shop would be very cheap.